But with good Lancaster double-cream, diced chowder potatoes, a nutty splash of sherry, and oysters warmed just enough for their edges to curl and their centers to firm into soft pillows, each buttery spoonful triggered an unexpected hum of primal satisfaction, just as Fisher wrote after such a meal at the Doylestown Inn in her 1941 essay, "A Supper to Sleep On," from which Marzinsky took his recipe: "It was . This kitchen makes its own butter, bakes whole-grain breads, and sources heritage ingredients from Lancaster County.

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It's not that his menu at the intriguing new "neo-bistro" called Buckminster's in Point Breeze offers such a wide variety.

In fact, he serves just one, the mild-mannered but beautifully fresh Sweet Amalia, a jewel of Delaware Bay sea flesh sustainably cultivated near Cape May.

What's impressive is the variety of ways in which they're cooked.

They come gleaming on the half-shell, with just a squirt of lemon to perk their delicately briny snap.

They're roasted just a breath past raw beneath a tangy gloss of house-cultured butter speckled with lemon thyme. mildly potent, quietly sustaining, warm as love and welcomer in winter." It's telling to compare this satisfyingly elemental stew to an earlier, much fancier version Marzinsky cooked when he was farther uptown at Fitler Dining Room.

They're also superb quickly fried inside toasted corn flour and perched atop a perfect omelet. It was fine, but deconstructed, with more ingredients and parsley sauce dotting the plate for a fine-dining polish that suited the tony boutique.

Even the velvety folds of rolled egg are infused with oyster liquor, and are an ideal match for the light funk of green hot sauce from house-fermented jalapeƱos. At Buckminster's in the now-emerging neighborhood of Point Breeze south of Washington Avenue, where momentum is building out from the American Sardine Bar, a dish with more fundamental appeal is a smart approach.

Marzinsky's most compelling ode to oysterdom, though, is a humble bowl of milky stew. Not that Buckminster's lacks for ambition or bold statements about the culture shift it brings to a corner once occupied by the old-school tavern called Burg's.

But, in fact, this Parisian phenomenon, built around small restaurant-bars serving high-quality food at fair prices, is meant for a frontiering role. The parsnip fries and little bowls of charred squid dusted with espelette pepper will likely find favor with the newest residents who have settled in the expensive rowhouses sprouting everywhere.